The Man writes...on Saturday,
the Exile and I got up just before dawn to climb the hill behind the little house in the country where we were staying. It was a great way to start the last day of our Korean adventure. And a chance to get a
little exercise.
We had arrived in Seoul late on Monday, specifically in the Myeongdong district, which presented an enjoyable assault on all the senses. Next morning we visited the extensive Gyeongbokgung Palace and took a cable car to the N'Seoul Tower to peer at the city through the snowy gloom.
We hurried to the train which transported us at up to 300km/hour to our final destination: the city of Miryang. Miryang has a population of over 100,000, but it is in an agricultural area and currently off the international tourist map. Late in the week we ran into an actual American in a bank, who taught English in six of the local schools. He told us we had chanced upon one of only two ATMs in the whole city that took foreign cards.
The cultural immersion was emphasised by our accommodation: described by our hosts as a traditional Korean guest house, it was a single dwelling in the middle of a farming village about five miles out of town. There was no furniture, no beds and, for the last night when the gas ran out, no heating and no hot water. Lacking anything else to do, we went to sleep early and got up to take
wonderful walks at dawn.
There were few common cultural points of reference with our hosts, but they were enthusiastic about English soccer, particularly Manchester United. Asked if they knew any British rock stars, they offered 'The Beatles" and (less obviously perhaps) Victoria Beckham. On the final evening, after three days of meetings, they persuaded us to join them in Karaoke - the type where you get a private sound-proofed room with your friends - where the Exile and I gave a version of the Righteous Brothers' "Unchained Melody" which will surely live long in their memories.
After our dawn walk on Saturday, we were taken to Pyochungsa: a fifteen hundred years old complex of wooden temples set among steep hills and bamboo forests. Peaceful and incredibly beautiful.

There was time for just one more lunch, as always taken sitting on the floor. There were more than thirty dishes on the table at the start - mostly vegetarian, variously spicey, and all delicious - but more and more kept arriving over the next hour and a half. The whole time our bowls of
makkolli (rice wine) were repeatably topped up to the brim, invariably with the earnest (and completely untruthful) promise: "No alcohol".
After lunch we said goodbye to our generous hosts and I took the train to Seoul, then another to the airport, endured a fourteen hour flight to Atlanta, a three hour layover, and then a two hour flight to Albany. After all this, it came as some surprise to realise it was still Saturday.